North Bali: Dolphins, Mountains and Black Sand
Lovina is 2.5 hours from Canggu and feels like a different island. Black volcanic beaches, calm water, spinner dolphins at sunrise, and a mountain road that passes through cool-air coffee plantations and a lake temple that appears to float. North Bali is the antidote to south Bali.
Lovina: the original north Bali resort
Lovina is a strip of small beach villages on Bali's north coast - the first place outside south Bali to develop significant tourism. Black volcanic sand (striking against the turquoise water), a fraction of south Bali's crowds, and the most reliably calm sea in Bali. Lovina is what Kuta was before the hotel blocks arrived.
Dolphin watching at sunrise
Spinner dolphins gather in the bay most mornings. Traditional outrigger boats leave before dawn - by 5:30am you're on the water as the mountains behind Lovina turn pink. The dolphins are genuinely wild and genuinely reliably there; this isn't staged.
The practical reality: many boats chase the same pods simultaneously, which can feel chaotic. The dolphins don't seem bothered - spinner dolphins are extremely active and often approach boats voluntarily. Go with a smaller, quieter operator if possible.
Dolphin trips at Lovina
Munduk: the mountain above Lovina
30 minutes inland from Lovina, the road climbs to Munduk - a cool mountain village among coffee and clove plantations. Waterfalls nearby, mountain hiking, and temperatures 10 degrees cooler than the coast. The road between Lovina and Munduk is one of Bali's most beautiful.
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan: the lake temple
On the road from south Bali to Lovina, Lake Bratan and its floating temple are one of the island's most photographed sights. The temple appears to float when the lake is full. Go early morning before clouds descend and tourist buses arrive.
Getting to North Bali from south
- From Canggu to Lovina: 2.5–3 hours by scooter via Bedugul and Lake Bratan
- The mountain road through Bedugul is the highlight - cool air, lake views, coffee stops
- Lovina makes a good overnight stop on the North Bali road trip
- Stay the night to catch the 5am dolphin trips without a long drive
From our experience
We have done the trip north ourselves. The road to Lovina crosses the mountains, and overheated brakes are the second most common problem we see after punctures. On long descents the brake fluid can boil and the brakes stop working. Engine braking is limited on an automatic scooter, so ride down slowly, brake in short pulses and stop to let the brakes cool.
FAQ
Getting there by scooter or car?
Scooters and cars from local owners. Delivery to your villa or hotel is usually free.
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